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When life seems lunatic, who knows where madness lies? 
- Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra




These are wines that come from the vineyards and cellar of Kabaj. Outside of the standard production. Experimental or unintended. Resonant with us, and we trust you.



The Rider:

Claret a'la Brda. There are conventions that even The rough barrels from the 2011 and 2012 harvests from Kabaj's small holdings of old vine Merlot, Cab and Cab Franc. Proprietor Katja Kabaj was unaware the wine existed until her husband Jean Michel brought it up from the cellar.  "It is good but different” she exclaimed, “I don't recognize it, what is it?", "An experiment! Jean Michel replied, “It's been in barrel for 9 years!" Bottled August of 2020. Dense, perfumed, impossibly suave a Grand Cru unknown.  Highest elevation red grapes planted in Brda. Soils of Marl and Flysch. Barrel cuvee of 2011 and 2012 vintage, 9 years in french barrique Bottled 2020


From the winemaker:
Wine is not fashion avenue, it is part of the life of a winemaker and at the same time part of culture. However you work, you need to know your work and materials first. You need to know how the material is made, what it is from and how it will impact your product. Otherwise you cannot get any good out of it. It is like cooking: you can not cook a good dish without knowing the ingredients first and how to use them. We do not put wine inside the wood barrel to get it a wooden taste but to enrich wine with healthy tannins that extend the lifespan of wine. We must be aware that tannins in the wood increase for some time, after that at a certain point they start to fall. The key is determining when to remove the wine from the barrel. It depends on the winemaker's knowledge and feelings to decide when this is.



Ghost Rider:

This strange and wonderful libation is a collaborative attempt between Kabaj and Black Lamb to rediscover the historical fashion of Goriska Brda wines. Most prominent among the local varieties are the white Tokaj (Sauvignonasse, Green Sauvignon, Friulano) and Rebula. The wine would have been vinified in old barrels. They likely harvested when the grapes were as ripe as possible. Maceration of white grapes has historically been practiced and without refrigerant technology the wines would have been much more oxidative. Ghost Rider was macerated with the skins  6 months maceration. 3 years in mostly 500l old oak. Some old barriques as well. Bottled in 2013. No sulfur. Honey, umami, earth, apocryphal stuff.

The local white grapes of Brda have grown across the hills interplanted with the many other fruits that thrive in the region's ideal conditions for centuries or more. We know the wines were favored but we don’t know much about what they tasted like. There are stories, and old memories, but trying to make wines like they would have is probably the best information. Most prominent among the varieties are Tokaj (Sauvignonasse, Green Sauvignon, Friulano) and Rebula. The wine would have been vinified in oak barrels, possibly chestnut or acacia which are also part of the local history, almost certainly they would be old barrels. They likely harvested when the grapes were as ripe as possible 6 months maceration. 3 years in mostly 500l old oak. Some old barriques as well.



Wanderer:

This is a story about a vineyard finding a winemaker rather than the other way around. The vineyard was purchased by a friend who loves Pinot Noir, but who’s primary occupation is as an art dealer not winemaker. The first wines from this location were vinfied in a classical fashion. Long elevage in barrique with an emphasis on extract and complexity. Jean loved the fruit so much that they agreed to lease the vineyard so they could continue working with it. Ultimately Kabaj decided to utilize the fruit to make sparkling wines (including their red pet nat Corvus and a yet to be released methode traditionale wine) and stop making the classical version. In the meantime these early renditions continued to develop and are drinking better every year. Young for what it will reward medium to long term aging and shows best decanted. Alternatively it will reward those who drink it over a number of days. The vineyard is walking distance from the winery in an exposed open position. The vines were planted in 2002. The soil is clay above marl, the dominant soil of the region, geologically related to limestone. Grapes were harvested late September 2015, destemed and fermented with native yeast in barrique of 225 and 500 liters. Wine was aged for 2 years before bottling. Released 2021.


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Winemaker perspective:
Amphora is somehow egg-shaped but not completely, it breathes and transfers micro oxidation through the clay. But it has to be buried in the ground to allow this and to keep a constant temperature. Those amphoras you see outside can not provide this. Those are ceramic vessels and can not breath. So wine in the amphora changes its taste because of contact with the clay (and with the air), from there it gets its natural taste and its secondary aromas. Concrete egg: we need to know from what exactly the concrete is. Concrete is made from slag, a leftover from metal + clinker from marlestone. From the percentage of those both it depends what quality and properties concrete you get. It shrinks and spreads, that's what influences micro oxidation. Because of egg shape, wine moves constantly. Those wines are more mineral and salty because of concrete. Wooden barrels (oak): wood allows maximum micro oxidation, dehydration and concentration of wine. We do not put wine inside the wood barrel to get it a wooden taste but to enrich wine with healthy tannins that extend the lifespan of wine. We must be aware that tannins in the wood increase for some time, after that at a certain point they start to fall. The key is determining when to remove the wine from the barrel. It depends on the winemaker's knowledge and feelings to decide when this is. However you work, you need to know your work and materials first. You need to know how the material is made, what is it from and how does it impact your product. Otherwise you cannot get any good out of it. It is like cooking: you can not cook a good dish without knowing the ingredients first and how to use them. Wine is not a fashion avenue, it is part of the life of a winemaker and at the same time part of culture.

Mark