Vina Štemberger is located in Kras, Slovenia. Kras is located a bit east of Prosecco, Italy. It is an appellation uniquely shared by two nations. Carso to the Italians, Kras to the Slovenians. The pilings that support Venice were made from Kras oak. The term Karst topography was coined here and references limestone soils that dissolve into caves, which there are many of in Kras. It is an area that has seen a great deal of conflict throughout history. The impassable Alps to the north, the Adriatic Sea to the south, its location is something of an East/West gateway. These geological conditions are responsible for the region’s constant, often harsh winds, ideal for grape cultivation. Due to the high iron content of the soils, Kras wines have historically been prized for their medicinal value, most of all the red Teran (Terano to the Italians). Health aside, the white wines are at least as compelling and offer the same depth and intellectual charm as the reds.


Sebastijan and his wife Loredana and their three sons live and make wine in a large historically Turkish farm in the village of Šepulje. This is a hilltop village and could be considered a premier cru due to the reputation of the wines. Designed in a square with a large central courtyard the building was designed to protect workers and animals from the winds, Sebastijan is restoring the old building by hand with local rock and wood in traditional style. Trellised as an arbor on the outside of the farm house are two 300 year old Teran vines that he cares for and produces clones for the vineyards from. The farm is the familial home of two elderly sisters who also live there, the Štembergers maintain the farm and in exchange are able to produce their wines in the farm house and its cellar. In 2022 they completed work on an additional separate cellar adjacent to the vineyards behind the farm house.


The vineyards are located in two locations. In the village of Šepulje surrounding the farm house and in the forest of Štanjelo overlooking the Vipava Valley. They are certified organic but also cultivated according to biodynamic principles where possible. The forest vineyard is too remote to correctly administer all of the necessary preparations. The Šepulje vineyard is rich in terra rosa and where the majority of the red Teran and white Vitovska is grown. The Štanjelo vineyard is dominated by flysch and divided equally between Malvazija and Zelen. He raises pigs next to his forest vineyard. They eat a half wild diet and are the source for the exquisite ham Sebastijan cures above the wine barrels and serves alongside his wines to lucky visitors. The greatest Pršut (prosciutto) anywhere.


The Štembergers came from Alto Adige long enough ago for their Germanic name to acquire its Slavic punctuation. Sebastijan studied winemaking during Slovenia’s Socialist period, technical winemaking on an industrial scale. It was not the style of winemaking he had in his heart. His Father was a winemaker but passed away when Sebastijan was a child. Sebastijan wanted to make the wines of his childhood memories. Through trial and error he searched out his own taste and style of winemaking. For ten years, he sold his production to local restaurants to be served on tap as ‘open wine’. Slowly as he gained experience and acquired vineyards he began to bottle. It is probably this period of self education that give Sebastijan’s wines their very personal feel.


Kras wines tend to be salty and Mediterranean in character. The whites, often skin macerated, are lower in acid and discreetly floral while the reds, mostly Refošk, are tangy and ferrous. Distinctive in their own right, they acquire additional distinction in Vina Štemberger. Sebastijan’s wines are different. Always aromatic, expressive of fruit at the moment it should be consumed. The length of skin maceration and control of extract seem to emulsify the wines. Giving richness without weight, extract without tannin. This is complemented by his intelligent management of yeast and lees contact. Elegance of texture, expression of fruit and a signature gaminess give the wines dimension. Once open they react to the air and temperature, each bottle a display for many faces. Energetic and positive, Sebastijan is frenetic but his wines are calm. Gentle, suave, buoyant rather than tannic. Restrained in alcohol, deep and thoughtful, equal parts animal and intellect. We drink these wines with foods cooked over fire often from the sea, or cured, preferably outdoors with our fingers.